Garage Door FAQ & Buying Guide

Question 1

When should I replace a garage door instead of repairing it?

Accepted Answer

If your door doesn't operate safely, stop using it and call us — don't try to fix it yourself. Consider replacing the door when it lacks modern safety features such as pinch-resistant sections; it is sagging, badly dented, rusted through or the wood is rotting; you want better insulation and less maintenance (an insulated, pre-finished steel door is lighter on the opener than an old wood door); or you are preparing to sell — garage door replacement is consistently one of the renovation projects with the best return at resale.

Question 2

What is the best garage door for me?

Accepted Answer

Start with how much upkeep you want: steel needs very little, while wood and composite offer more custom looks. Then choose a style that suits your house, including windows and decorative hardware. If there's living space above or beside the garage, choose an insulated door for comfort and noise control.

Question 3

What is a carriage-house door?

Accepted Answer

It looks like the swing-out barn doors of the 1800s but opens overhead like any modern door. Stamped-steel carriage-house doors (such as the Amarr Classica) give the look without wood overlays that can peel. Real wood carriage doors are also available.

Question 4

Are special-size doors available?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Residential doors come in widths from 6 to 20 feet in 2-inch steps and heights from 6'6" to 12 feet. Exact custom sizes depend on the model.

Question 5

My garage has very little headroom. Can I still install a door?

Accepted Answer

Usually, yes. A standard setup needs 12 to 18 inches of headroom, but a low-headroom track kit can work with as little as 9.5 inches. For tall ceilings we also offer vertical-lift, follow-the-roofline (for vaulted ceilings) and high-lift track options.

Question 6

I want windows, but I'm worried about security.

Accepted Answer

Put the windows in the top section (or second from the top) for daylight with privacy. Choose tempered, frosted or obscure glass. If a window breaks, we can usually replace just the glass insert, not the whole section.

Question 7

Do I need a lock on my garage door?

Accepted Answer

Not if you have an electric opener; the opener holds the door closed. The door industry (DASMA) advises against using a manual lock with an opener, because running the opener while the door is locked can damage both. Without an opener, a lock is strongly recommended.

Question 8

Steel or wood?

Accepted Answer

Steel: strong, secure, energy-efficient and low-maintenance, with a baked-on factory finish. Wood: natural beauty and full customization, but it must be sealed on all six sides and refinished regularly to prevent rot and warping.

Question 9

Why choose an insulated door?

Accepted Answer

The garage door is the largest opening in your home's envelope. Insulation reduces heat loss and noise, which matters if the garage is attached, has a room above it or doubles as a workshop. Higher R-values are better, but the gains are incremental: doubling the R-value does not double the savings.

Question 10

Is 25-gauge steel thicker than 24-gauge?

Accepted Answer

No. With steel, a lower gauge number means thicker metal, so 24-gauge is thicker and stronger than 25-gauge.

Question 11

What colours are available? Can I paint my door?

Accepted Answer

Standard steel colours include white, almond, sandtone, charcoal grey, black and woodgrain finishes such as walnut. Custom colour programs offer hundreds more. You can repaint a steel door with good-quality exterior latex paint (not oil-based), but repainting may void the factory finish warranty.

Question 12

Where are your doors made?

Accepted Answer

Our main door line, Amarr, is manufactured in the United States. Ask us about the origin of any specific model.

Question 13

What is a wind-load door?

Accepted Answer

A door with extra structural reinforcement to resist strong wind. We can supply wind-load-rated doors for exposed properties, such as waterfront and hillside homes.

Question 14

Why should I use a professional installer?

Accepted Answer

A garage door is the largest moving object in your home, and its springs are under dangerous tension. A professional installation usually takes a few hours, meets safety requirements and keeps your warranty valid. A DIY install can take days and carries real risk of injury.

Question 15

Can I keep my old tracks?

Accepted Answer

We recommend replacing the tracks with the door. Each brand uses its own track design, and new tracks keep the system safe and the warranty valid.

Question 16

Will you take away my old door?

Accepted Answer

Yes. We remove and dispose of your old door for a small disposal fee.

Question 17

My home is older. Could my old door have lead paint?

Accepted Answer

Paint on doors in older homes (especially those built before 1990) may contain lead. When we remove an old painted door we follow WorkSafeBC lead-safe work practices; a small surcharge may apply.

Question 18

How do I know if my door is properly balanced?

Accepted Answer

With the door closed, pull the red emergency-release cord to disconnect the opener, then lift the door by hand. It should rise smoothly. Raise it about halfway (3 to 4 feet) and let go. If it stays in place, it's balanced. If it drops or shoots up, the springs need adjusting, so call us.

Question 19

How do I know if I need a repair or a full replacement?

Accepted Answer

Noise, a broken spring or worn rollers are service jobs. Replacement makes sense when panels are rusted through, the door is badly damaged, or repairs would cost more than about half the price of a new door.

Question 20

A car or ball dented one section. Can you replace just that panel?

Accepted Answer

If the model is still made, yes. Colour matching can be hard on an older, faded door, and when several sections are damaged a new door is usually better value.

Question 21

Why does my door need regular service?

Accepted Answer

Springs slowly lose tension, which makes the door heavier. That extra weight strains the opener and shortens its life. A regular service checks the springs, rollers, cables and safety features before small problems become breakdowns.

Question 22

Which is better: torsion or extension springs?

Accepted Answer

Torsion springs (mounted above the door) balance the door more smoothly and are safer. Extension springs (along the side tracks) stretch and need safety cables. We usually recommend converting to torsion springs.

Question 23

How do I clean my steel door?

Accepted Answer

Wash it at least once a year with a mild detergent (about one cup per 5 gallons / 19 L of warm water) and a soft brush or sponge, then rinse well. Never mix bleach with detergent.

Question 24

Which parts should I lubricate?

Accepted Answer

Hinges, roller bearings and the springs, once or twice a year, with a garage-door lubricant or the product your door manufacturer recommends. Never loosen or adjust the red-painted fasteners on the bottom brackets or spring anchors — they are under high tension.

Question 25

How do I maintain a wood carriage-house door?

Accepted Answer

Repaint or re-stain it every one to two years, depending on how much sun and rain it gets. All six sides must be sealed within the time the manufacturer specifies after delivery, or the warranty may be void.

Question 26

Should I repair or replace my opener?

Accepted Answer

If your opener was made before 1993, replace it. Photo-eye safety sensors became standard that year, and older units don't have them. Newer openers are also quieter, safer and can connect to your smartphone.

Question 27

What's the difference between chain, belt, screw and direct drive?

Accepted Answer

Belt drive: quietest and smoothest — ideal for attached garages. Chain drive: strong and economical but louder — fine for detached garages. Screw drive: few moving parts and little adjustment. DC and direct-drive motors: very quiet, soft start and stop, often with battery backup.

Question 28

Do I need to reinforce my door for an opener?

Accepted Answer

Yes. The top section needs a reinforcing strut or angle iron. Without it, the opener can bend the top panel over time.

Question 29

I lost my remote. What now?

Accepted Answer

Call us for a replacement remote. We'll program it and clear your opener's memory so the lost remote no longer works.

Question 30

Can I add a wireless keypad?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Most openers work with a wireless keypad, which is handy for letting kids or service people in without a key.

Before You Buy & Design

Materials, Energy & Specs

Installation & Old Doors

Service, Repair & Troubleshooting

Care & Maintenance

Garage Door Openers

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